An Exploration of McCarthy

Entering the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, from either side, shows you the grace of being something so small in this immense and intricate world. Giant snow-covered peaks sit atop rolling coniferous forests here. The boundless skies that back the landscape showcase the iridescent colors of the rising and setting sun. This gradient of mysticism only highlights the features of this expansive terrain.

A Remote Getaway

From whichever direction you enter the park, the once paved roads soon transition to dirt. Local legends warn that extra tires are necessary for this trip if driving by car. Where old railroad tracks used to lie, now old tie spikes unearth themselves, unannounced, and puncture tires. Cell service and gas stations are far from reach on this remote stretch. (NPS) Bringing an extra gas can and an emergency car kit might prove to be essential for this trip.

After many twists and turns through solitude, you may take in the sights of time-worn railroad lines strung above the road. And soon you will find yourself at signage for the last call for parking and campsites before heading into the quaint town. At the end of this dirt road, you will either find yourself at a padlocked gate or the footbridge into the quaint town of McCarthy.

A Mining History

Stories of this small town’s genesis begin with a large outcrop of copper ore being found and sold in 1900 to Stephen Birch. He was a 28-year-old engineer from New York. Birch was the one who bought the supplies and transported them across Alaska’s extreme terrain. All of this was to start the construction of one of the largest copper mines to date. (Ancestry) By 1905, the mine was fully operational and employed hundreds of men at Kennecott. (Visitor Information Center)

Nearby, the small town of Shushuna became known as McCarthy, after the philanthropist James McCarthy. He once claimed residence in the town (Northern Exposure). McCarthy soon became the center of the miners’ social scene. Additionally, the area supplied the needs for food, spirits, and various forms of entertainment suitable for a miner at the turn of the century. In 1907, the Copper River and Northwestern Railroad started construction.

The Settler’s Railroad

After four years of dedication to starts and failures through some of Alaska’s most rugged terrain, Michael J. “Big Mike” Heney was recognized for the completion of the 196-mile railroad. (NPS) In 1907, once the railroad was finished, McCarthy became a railroad turnaround point for about 800 people living in the area. (NPS)

In 1938, the copper ore began to run out. Those who arrived in a rush left in the same manner. (USGS) Leaving behind remnants of daily routines and still frames of mining operations. The town looked as if it were put on pause, ready to start up again at any moment.
The 1970’s gave McCarthy’s old roots as a social hub new life. In 1978, Jimmy Carter announced plans to designate McCarthy as a national monument. (Washington Post)This led to the revival of tourism in the small town. Simultaneously, it ushered the way for the site to become part of the National Park Service. McCarthy was ready to be explored once again. (NPS)
McCarthy Today

Following the exodus of the mining population, McCarthy has since had a rebirth. Now, this area is a hub for outdoor exploration and the epicenter of a quaint, high-quality social scene. Small town charm radiates from the streets of historic buildings and local shops here. While the year-round population is low, the number of visitors increases each year. (Demographics)

The road entrance to the town is guarded by a gate and a padlock. This leaves the footbridge that crosses the river as the main entrance for most. The only individuals permitted to enter the town by personal car are residents and approved entities. Once over the footbridge, there is the choice to take a fee-based shuttle into town or to walk the dirt road on foot. (NPS)

Small Town Charm

Once inside, you are greeted with amenities nestled into an antique setting. On a personal visit, we enjoyed multiple meals at a favorite local eatery known for its excellence in spud-based dishes. This was a perfect way to end our full-day adventures with a cold beer and crispy fries.

Lodging in the town can vary from famous old-time hotels, dry cabins, or even some luxury settings. The nightlife here can be lush, with intimate and unique entertainment at the local downtown saloon.
Entrance to McCarthy

Daytime Adventures

Biking is a personal recommendation for traversing these dirt roads. Taking the old wagon trail is a great way to enjoy the forested areas and use it as a connector from the town to the mining area. Shuttles also run from the ‘downtown’ area of McCarthy up to Kennecott.

The National Park Service has restored many of the buildings and provides interpretive signage and guided tours. Now, you can walk through restored homesteads and experience what it was like to be a resident in the town of Kennecott during the peak of mining.
Meander through the mining operations to imagine what a day in the frigid temperatures and harsh conditions might have been like. Colossal steam-based machinery greets you as you travel through the operations buildings. This experience takes you as close as you can get to what life was once like in ‘The Last Frontier’. (NPS)
Kennicott Glacier
Glaciers and Mountains

From McCarthy, you have access to many different features. Some of the more popular choices are exploring the nearby glaciers. These ice giants spill from the mountains and nestle into the valley below, and melt into the nearby rivers. The Root Glacier and the Kennicott Glacier are the two converging glaciers that are easy to spot. Ice climbing and mountaineering routes traverse across these ice fields and into the surrounding ranges.

There are even local guide companies to help you navigate and enjoy these ice features. The Kennicott Glacier carves around mountain sides to meet with the Root Glacier. The toe of this glacier is easily accessible by forested trails. (NPS) Time passes easily here as rocks cascade in rhythm from the high peaks of the moraine into the lake with the help of the sun’s heat. Icebergs bob along through the glacial lake below. This is a great place for a short exploration with paramount views.

Near mining sites and at higher elevations, you can hike to old mines such as the Bonanza Mine. After some steep gains, you might spot the remnants of dilapidated buildings. These hikes will take you to some excellent high points to enjoy the majesty of the wilderness.

McCarthy Explored

These are just a few points and firsthand accounts of why McCarthy is a great stop, whether you are traveling from the seaside or the interior. There is much more to this area than just these lines of words. If you are looking for a little Alaska charm and some more adventure, exploring McCarthy might be for you.