Exploring McCarthy
Entering the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve from either side shows you the grace of being something so small in this immense and intricate world. Giant snow covered peaks sit atop rolling coniferous forests here. The boundless skies that backdrop the landscape showcase the iridescent colors that come with the rising and setting of the sun. This gradient of mysticism only highlights the features of this expansive terrain.
A Remote Getaway
From whichever direction you enter the park, the once paved roads soon transition to dirt. Local legends warn of the necessity of extra tires on this travel if by car. Where old railroad tracks used to lie, now old tie spikes unearth themselves, unannounced, and puncture tires. Cell service and gas stations are far from reach on this remote stretch. Bringing an extra gas can and emergency car kit might prove to be essential for this trip.
After many twist and turns through solitude you may take in the sights of time worn railroad lines stilted above the road. And soon you will find yourself at signage for the last call for parking and campsites before heading into the quaint town. At the end of this dirt road you will either find yourself at a padlocked gate or the foot bridge into the quaint town of McCarthy.
A Mining History
Stories of this small towns’ genesis begin with a large outcrop of copper ore being found and sold in 1900 to Stephen Birch. He was a 28 year old engineer from New York. Birch was the one to buy supplies and travel them in over the extreme terrains of Alaska. All of this was to start construction of one of the largest copper mines to date. By 1905 the mine was fully operational and supplied work for hundreds of men in the mines of Kennecott. (Visitor Information Center)
Nearby, the small town of Shushuna became known as McCarthy, after the philanthropist James McCarthy. He once claimed residence in the town (Northern Exposure). McCarthy soon became the social scene for miners. Additionally, the area supplied the demands of food, spirits, and various entertainments fitting to a miner at the turn of the century. In 1907 the Copper River and Northwestern railroad started construction.
The Settler’s Railroad
After four years of dedication to starts and failures through some of Alaska’s most rugged terrain, Michael J. “Big Mike” Heney was recognized for the completion of the 196 mile railroad. In 1907, once the railroad was finished, McCarthy became a railroad turnaround point for about 800 people living in the area.
In 1938 the copper ore began to run out. Those who arrived in a rush, left in the same manner. Leaving behind remnants of daily routines and still frames of mining operations. The town looked as if it were put on pause, ready to start up again at any moment.
The 1970’s gave water to McCarthy’s old roots as a social hub again. In 1978 Jimmy Carter made the declaration to make McCarthy a national monument. This brought about the resurrection of tourism for the small town. Simultaneously, it ushered the way for the site to become part of the National Park Service. McCarthy was ready be explored once again.
McCarthy Today
Following the exodus of the mining population McCarthy has since had a rebirth. Now this area is a hub for outdoor exploration while being the epicenter of a quaint and quality
The footbridge into McCarthy.
social scene. Small town charm radiates from the streets of historic buildings and local shops here. While the year round population is low, the number of visitors increases each year.
The road entrance to the town is guarded by a gate and padlock. This leaves the footbridge that crosses the river as the main entrance for most. The only individuals to enjoy the luxury of entering the town by personal car are the residents and approved entities. Once over the footbridge there is the choice to take a fee based shuttle into town or to walk the dirt road in by foot.
Small Town Charm
Once inside, you are greeted with amenities nestled into an antique setting. Upon a personal visit we were able to enjoy multiple meals at a favorite local eatery known for it’s excellence in spud based dishes. This was a perfect way to end our full day adventures with a cold beer and crispy fries.
Lodging in the town can vary from famous old-time hotels, dry cabins, or even some luxury settings. The nightlife here can be lush with intimate and unique entertainment at the local saloon ‘downtown’.
Day Time Adventures
Traveling by bike is a personal recommendation for traversing these dirt roads. Taking the old wagon trail is a great way to enjoy the forested areas and use as a connector from the town to the mining area. Shuttles also run from the ‘downtown’ area of McCarthy up to Kennecott.
The National Park Service has restored many of the buildings and provides interpretive signage and guided tours. Now, you can walk through restored homesteads and experience what it was like to be a resident in the town of Kennecott during the peak of mining.
Meander through the mining operations to imagine what a day in the frigid temperatures and harsh conditions might have been like. Colossal steam based machinery greet you as you travel through the operations buildings. This experience takes you as close as you can get to what life was once like in ‘The Last Frontier’.
Glaciers and Mountains
From McCarthy you have access to many different features. Some of the more popular choices are exploring the nearby glaciers. These ice giants spill from the mountains and nestle into the valley below and melt into the nearby rivers. The Root Glacier and the Kennicott Glacier are the two converging glaciers that are easy to spot. Ice climbing and mountaineer routes traverse across these ice fields and into the surrounding ranges. There are even local guide companies to help you navigate and enjoy these ice features.
Enjoying the views from the toe of the Kennicott Glacier.
The Kennicott Glacier carves around mountain sides to meet with the Root Glacier. The toe of this glacier is easily accessible by forested trails. Time passes along easily here as rocks cascade in rhythm from the high peaks of the moraine into the lake with the help of the sun’s heat. Icebergs bob along through the glacial lake below. This is a great place for a short exploration with paramount views.
Nearby the mining sites, farther into elevation, you can hike to old mines such as the Bonanza Mine. After some steep gains you might spot the remnants of dilapidated buildings. These hikes will take you to some excellent high points to enjoy the majesty of the wilderness.
McCarthy Explored
These are just a few points and first hand accounts of why McCarthy is a great stop weather you are traveling from the seaside or the interior. There is much more to this area than just these lines of words. If you are looking for a little Alaska charm and some more adventure, exploring McCarthy might be for you.
