Katmai National Park: Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes
In 1912, in the South Eastern region of Alaska, the largest volcanic eruption of the 20th century took place. This event, considered the 5th largest eruption in the world on record, was cataclysmic. Before the event, this area, a river valley that native peoples used as a passage point, was also a watershed region for a few small fishing communities. Once this massive natural explosion occurred, the volcano was named Novarupta, meaning “new eruption”. This event changed the landscape dramatically into the beautiful, raw, and rugged terrain we can observe and explore today.
Active Novarupta
For over 60 hours, Novarupta spewed ash into the sky. This ash went over 20 feet in the air, provoked earthquakes, and was so strong, the seismic activity was recorded in Washington D.C. What was once the Ukak River Valley was now a 40-square mile radius of barren ash. Additionally, the once prevalent summit of Mount Katmai collapsed as magma drained and vents opened.
Lava flows cascaded into the valley, some, traveling at rates of 100 miles per hour. As the landscape cracked seemingly in half, any water that steeped into fissure lines, quickly was transferred into steam. Thousands of vents along the valley released this pressurized steam, thus gaining the name, “Valley of the Ten Thousand Smokes”.
Effects of the Eruption
Over three days the ash cloud buried Katmai, Old Savonoski, and nearby Douglas. As the winds shifted to the East, Kodiak Island was in complete darkness for three days. Kodiak Island is 115 miles away from the explosion site and was layered in ash two feet deep.
The heat trapped in the rock took decades to cool. Alaska showcased some of the most dramatic effects of the explosion. The ash particles from this eruption eventually reached across the entire globe. And Easterly across the Northern continent, acid rain fell in reaction to this event.
Storytellers and Explorers
There were only a few communities living in this region during this time period. Alaska’s original inhabitants were quite familiar with the instability of the ground and regular earthquakes. These small communities decided to evacuate a few days before, which resulted in there being zero deaths from this natural disaster.
It is noted that ancestral knowledge and oral tradition voiced by an elder in the village, warned those to store water and turn their fishing boats over so as not to fill with ash before the explosion happened. Once this event occurred, the world turned it’s eyes to this region. Therefore, during the 1910’s, scientific expeditions were funded by the National Geographic Society that eventually led to designation of Katmai National Park.
Scientists who ventured this region to explore and document the area faced many hazards and tribulations. These expeditions were led by Robert F. Griggs. And in 1916, when the park was designated, there was a flash flood across the barren landscapes, washing away anything else that had been left behind.
Novarupta Today
Today this area is one of the best observation points to notice the effects of a volcanic eruption of this magnitude. There are many rock formations, features, and new life growing within this valley now. Currently the area is listed as “normal” by the U.S. Department of the Interior, which means there is no measurable activity to be listed as an advisory.
People visit to enjoy the spectacular views and explore the area. There are many opportunities for camping, hiking, backpacking, and observing stunning views of this wilderness. Some features in this area are the many mountain summits, glaciers, alpine lakes with waterfalls, rivers, and awe-inspiring geological formations.
Novarupta itself is about 400 m in diameter and 65 m in height. This formation is then surrounded by 2 km wide funnel shaped structure. This dome is also a plug-like feature with a low lying ring made of ash and pomice.
References Cited
- “Exploring the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes.” National Parks Service, U.S. Department of the Interior, www.nps.gov/katm/planyourvisit/exploring-the-valley-of-ten-thousand-smokes.htm. Accessed 17 Aug. 2024.
- “Alaska Volcano Observatory | Novarupta.” Avo.alaska.edu, avo.alaska.edu/volcano/Novarupta.
- “Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes and the 1912 Novarupta-Katmai Eruption – Katmai National Park & Preserve (U.S. National Park Service).” Nps.gov, 2021, www.nps.gov/katm/learn/nature/valley-of-ten-thousand-smokes.htm#:~:text=The%20Plinian%20style%20eruption%20at. Accessed 19 Aug. 2024.
